A Somm’s Summer Shift: Navigating Climate Change in Wine and Life

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It's all about choices we make

3 min read

July 2024 / Nikos Panidis

Wine Tasting,Blind Tasting,Greek wine,Le Toucher du Vin

Escaping the oppressive heat of summer in the city was not always part of my plan. Over the years, I have spent many summers in Athens due to work commitments, and I must admit that I have grown to appreciate the city during this season. August holds a unique charm for me. The city feels almost deserted as its residents leave for their summer holidays, offering a rare and tranquil atmosphere that I have come to enjoy immensely.

However, this year I decided to take a different approach. I chose to leave Athens and work as a sommelier on a Greek island. This decision was not made lightly but out of a growing realization that the intense summer heat is becoming increasingly intolerable for me. The rising temperatures, exacerbated by climate change, have made the summers in Athens less bearable than they once were.

Climate change is undeniably reshaping our lives, often in ways we did not anticipate. Its effects are becoming more pronounced, with an unprecedented impact on our daily existence. This shift in my summer plans reflects a broader need to adapt to these changing conditions. By relocating to a place with milder weather, I can continue pursuing my passion for wine while managing the physical discomfort caused by extreme heat.

Hopefully, the planned measures to make Athens a more sustainable city will be implemented soon to prevent a local ecological crisis. This will ensure that Athens continues to be the brilliant city it is.

My decision to leave Athens for the summer is both personal and practical. It highlights the growing influence of climate change on our choices and lifestyles. While I will always cherish the unique quiet of August in Athens, the need to seek more tolerable conditions has become paramount.

As we already live in the realities of a warming world, adjusting is unavoidable. This necessity is especially apparent in the world of wine. Regions that become too hot for viticulture, with limited water resources, will inevitably suffer, as will wine-producing areas that experience heavy rains and high humidity. Viticulturists are seeking out vineyards in higher altitudes or exploring the potential of other grape varieties or even hybrids to cope with climate change, doing what is crucial for sustaining the future of wine and the viability of their businesses.

The impact on viticulture and wine styles demonstrates how profoundly climate change can affect even the most traditional practices. Organic and biodynamic viticulture are steps in the right direction, producing wines with purity and distinct expressions while protecting the environment. However, these practices account for less than 10% of the world’s total vineyard area, which is not enough to make a significant environmental impact. This discrepancy raises an important question: are current efforts in viticulture and winemaking sufficient to achieve true sustainability?

As I consider these thoughts, I reflect on my responsibility as a wine professional and a consumer. As the future remains uncertain, one thing is clear: we must all respond to these environmental challenges in a way that sustains hope for the future of wine in an ever-changing climate.

This response involves making conscientious choices that do not harm the environment and show respect for nature. It means drawing inspiration from the way ecosystems have functioned for millennia, in a more holistic approach, encompassing not just small artisanal producers but the entire wine industry.

Perhaps the solution is right in front of us. We need to open our eyes, start to observe more carefully and be less egocentric. By understanding and respecting natural processes, we can find sustainable ways to produce wine that honors the environment. As wine professionals and consumers, our choices matter. By supporting practices that respect and preserve our ecosystems, we can help ensure that the future of wine remains bright and sustainable in the face of climate change.